Licia Florio

Fashion

Today I’m very happy to show you this huge interview with the italian designer Licia Florio. If you appreciate her clothes, you can buy them on her new online store www.ilflor.com

Hi Licia. You are Italian, like me, and I’m very happy to take a piece of our peniunsula on the international mag C-Heads. I would start from here to ask you the first question. What are the aspects of style in which you feel close to our country and in what do you feel a bit foreign? I like the quality, the sartorial and handcraft skills of our country. I love the tradition and the history, the strenght with which we are able to renovate ourself. I don’t appreciate the ostentation of the brands, the corporativisms, the unhealthy competition and the rumors.

On your website I read that your brand would like to realize simple clothing, able to enhance shapes, but being comfortable. Your ideas as a designer also reflect what you look for in clothes, as a client? I draw and I produce only the clothes that I would like to have. I think that there is space in the market for a collection with the characteristics that I want to achieve. I’m a careful client and I’m very critic. I like to buy clothes in the vintage shops and online.

In your research as a stylist, who have been the fashion designers that inspired you the most?
The school of Antwerp, Prada, Marni, the Japanese school, the Italian tradition, the workwear, unknown vintage clothing.

Your last winter collection was inspired by the birch, the oleander, the pine. You combined the human world with the vegetal one. What do you expect to communicate to us with you new spring collection?
In that winter collection I worked starting from the city, that characterize itself as a natural enviroment (my city, my forest). I gave to each piece of clothing the latin name of the trees as they were a part of this ecosytem. For the summer I have been inspired by the nautical world: a relationship with the nature and the travel, with the enterprise. Colors, natural textiles and simple geometries that create a train of thought with the seasons.

In your works the attention for the choice of colors and materials is very evident. What are the colors and the materials you prefer to work with? And how do you choose them?
In my research work, working on the textiles is fundamental. I use natural textiles (hemp cloth, linen, silk, cotton) and I match them with colors that show them up and create harmony. For this season I have drawn a new pattern: a little knot that reminds the mood of the collection.

Do you find some inspiration in other kinds of art, like painting or music?
I love arts, I think that some expressions of fashion reminds them. If I wouldn’t have my brands I would keep on painting, like I did some years ago.

Who do you think is a fashion icon? Have you got one, more than one or no one?
I don’t like the icons, I prefer to be fascinated by the people that I meet every day.

What are the main difficulties that a person who wants to be a fashion designer can meet?
We know that the offer is very large and there is a lot of competition in the world of fashion, but I think that is still possible to establish and grow up as a fashion designer.
You have to be curious and to learn being self-critical on your work. You have to equipe yourself with determination and will.

What are your next projects? Are there any collaborations or things you would like to realize as soon as possible?
I’m working on the new collections for Licia Florio and for L’F unisex, the brand of shoes I’ve founded with my boyfriend Francio Ferrari. I really want to do new things and I put all my enthusiasm in new projects.

How would you describe the philosophy of your brand Licia Florio to our readers?
Simple and comfortable, able to enhance who wears it.

Thank you so much for your courtesy and having explained to us something about your ideas about fashion and your work!
Thank you.

www.ilflor.com

Interview by Irene-Anna Gasparello

KATHY LAM

Fashion

This designer is absolutely unique. Kathy Lam gets inspiration from Chinese porcelain and makes it into fashion in such a classy way. She works with soft linen or silk cotton and she creates amazing blue, ivory and cream knitted cardigans and beautiful skirts. Let’s discover the world of this girl inspired by Asia, grunge rock and vintage styling.

Tell us something about you and your brand
I was originally from Hong Kong and I spent my 20 years living there before I studied fashion design in the UK. No doubt I am influenced by Hong Kong – Oriental mixing western culture. My teenage was filled with British rock, so made me have interest in their dressing as well and that’s the starting of my favourite in fashion. The things I learnt through design is not to follow, but retain individuality to bring out personal aesthetic that represent yourself. I design casual and easy tailoring together with abstract prints. Not to say I am not amazed by extraordinary fashion just I am more absorbed about garment’s being wearable and maintainability. Also pattern design is an essential substance for the brand, as we all live in a symbolic world pattern gives so much meanings into a man’s eye. The people who will wear my clothes are delicate minds, sensitive to colors and true to themselves who likes comfortable fashion.

Your collection fascinated me because I love blue in all shades, and you use it a lot. Your clothes seem like paintings of the sea. How did you get inspired?
Interesting question. To be honest I used blue because the inspiration was from Chinese Blue and White porcelain. But think deeply, blue is always my beloved color sometimes when you incline one object you can’t tell the reason, maybe blue makes me feel relaxed.

The shapes of your collection are a bit oversize, they look comfy and classic. How did you get this mix and match?
Because inspiration was Chinese Blue and White porcelain so when I was researching fashion references was more concerning with Chinese traditional clothing like qipao. However the collection silhouette are not strict by typical womenswear qipao but a vision of Chinese menswear, which is loose fitting and boxy. Combining with western formal dressing element like button up, shirt collars and pressed pleats. It’s a combination of east and west.

Generally, what is your idea of fashion?
I will remain fashion as clean and basic on shapes, contrast with classy and delicate pattern, aware on using different fabrics, indeed textiles affect so much with the final outcome.

How do you choose your personal outfits?
It depends on the day of mood. Most of my times I dress very plain with collar shirt tuck in or some loose fit clothes. Sometimes I want to wear busy patterns from head to toes.

Your clothes also remind me of the chinese porcelain wares. Why this inspiration? Are you fascinated by the oriental culture?
When I first started the project my head came up with different pattern themes, but having a seconds thought I picked Chinese porcelain because I am a Chinese and I wanted to design something about it. For me, the Chinese porcelain art craft is very beautiful and detail-oriented.

What are your favourite materials to work with? I can recognize silk, spandex, cotton…
Whatever fabrics got distinct speciality and cozy. There are still many interesting textiles to be investigated and explored, I cannot stick on one material now.

Who are the designers that inspire you the most, and why?
Many fabulous designers inspire me and I often get pattern design idea from vintage clothing. If I have to name one it will be Dries Van Noten, his design contains artistic theory, bold on using colors and flora prints in a very elegant way.

www.kathylam.info

Interview by Irene-Anna-Gasparello

HSIU-HUI HSU

Fashion

If you don’t know what sustainable fashion is, today you can learn it with us. First of all, stop thinking that ecology = boring clothes. The works of the young designer Hsiu-Hui Hsu will show you that you can be absolutely genial respecting the enviroment.

Hi Hsiu-Hui! Let’s start this interview making you an easy question. Describe yourself as a designer. What is the philosophy behind your creations?
My designs are simple and practical. I want to design the garments that every woman would wear everyday and feel good in it.

I really love the colors you use in your collection, blue denim and black. How do you choose the colors of your womenswear?
The colors of collection are inspired by the reflection of solar energy panel. I wanted to create the kind of feeling between modern and the future. The coated denim and black/silver grosgrain fabric brings a low-profile luxury feel. Adding on metallic gold and silver details gives the collection a bright point and futuristic look.

You have also created a sort of solar energy panel dress. Could you tell us something about this experience?
I am really keen on sustainable fashion. I integrated the solar energy panel into my garment that I cannot only encourage people using this sustainable energy, but also it is functional as a mobile charging device. The power bank hidden in the dress pocket can be used to charge mobile phone, ipod and even an LED light when you need an electric torch in the dark. I intend to create fashionable garments that fit into urban people with the sustainable awareness.

Your dresses have very soft lines, but your jackets and your trousers are very strong. How do you get inspired?
The collection is inspired by strong female characters- Amelia Earhart and Mulan. They have feminine appearances with a strong mind. I am aiming to show modern women who are not afraid to challenge and assuming greater responsibility in our world and our future.

Who are the designer that inspire you the most? And who are the designers you would like to collaborate with?
Martin Margiela is definitely my number one. I read his book as my fashion bible. I still feel so excited every time I flip through the book and always have different ideas coming out. I would like to collaborate with Hussein Chalayan. I love his conceptual design and the way he integrates the technology into garment. It is really amazing that he can combine the two totally different knowledge (science+ fashion) together.

What is your story? Tell us something about your education and your first experiences as a designer.
I was a science student before I came to London. I studied animal science and cell biology. Then I came to London for my fashion dream. I took the foundation in Arts and design course and BA womenswear in London College of Fashion. I love the freedom and multi culture environment. I love the fact that there is no longer just right or wrong for your work. There are so much more possibilities. My first experience as a designer is actually sewn a Christmas outfit for my pet rabbit 6 years ago!

What are your projects for the future? We wish you to realise them all!
There are still too many things I want to do and to try. So I normally don’t do too much planning to limit myself. I grab the chance as it comes and live in the moment. But I do have a goal to start my own business in 5-10 years.

Interview by Irene-Anna-Gasparello

INTERVIEW YEASHIN KIM

Fashion

Today we’re going to explore the amazing world of an explosive and colourful designer, the young Yeashin Kim. Enjoy the use of textures, the fantasy and the ambition!

First of all, introduce yourself to our readers!
I am now 22, I graduated from London college of fashion in 2011. I also graduated from arts middle school and arts high school as well. I’ve started fine art when I was 12. The first time I’ve seen a fashion show, I was 17 and at that time I thought that fashion was very outgoing, a splendid major and also it is one of the most concentrated genre such as music, fine art, stage art, business etc. That’s why I choose fashion. This is very hard work but also very dynamic work as well.

What is the philosophy behind your work as a fashion designer?
My work philosophy is joyful and enjoyable and colourful. I hope to deeply move the people who see my clothes, and please them with joy and also that they can see fresh ideas and colour combinations too.

Let’s talk about the colours you use. They are so bright and so various and remind me of the Missoni ones. Why this choice?
Actually I love colours, various colour mix that always makes it enjoyable for people´s eyes. My concept is also referred to sea creatures. I saw some coral photos, and the colour combination was great.
This is why some of the colours of my collections are like that.

Who are the designers that inspire you the most?
JC de Castelbajac and Walter van Beirendonck

What about your fringed clothes? How did you get inspired?
I saw some documentary about the sea. My mind was captured by such charming and colourful corals. Corals take a long time undersea to be created. They were amazing. I added some more unique sea creatures into my concept. The aesthetic views of the Rococo period and the clothing that appear in the paintings of Antoine Watteau inspired me to do my work.

Your clothes are a revisitation of the rococo period too. Why do you like that era?
I like to add small details and decoration things on my clothes. Rococo age people’s clothes had lots of small details and decoration that is charming and cute and pretty. My design philosophy is also joyful and the people of Rococo aimed a truly joyful life, so I totally like the concept I have chosen.

Who influences your works and your design?
Actually, when I’ve started my design, I didn’t see any other designer’s work, because I don’t wanna follow someone else’s design style. So I am not sure about who influences me… ; ) but when I’ve started my work my uni tutor told me lots of good ideas and helped me thinking about a good direction. So his advice has helped me to make my work much better than before.

What are your projects for the future?
Now I need some more experience. I want to learn more about the real industry of style. And a few months later I would like to start my own show. ; )

Interview by Irene-Anna-Gasparello

JOHANNA PIHL

Fashion

Today I’m very happy to tell you something about Johanna Pihl, a swedish designer who studied in London and started improving a very personal style. We love her use of colors and materials, and her own representation of haute couture. Let’s start reading what she told to us!

Hi Johanna! First of all, tell us something about you, your education and your philosophy
Hi, I was born in Stockholm – where I grow up. Since I was young, I have always had a great interest in fashion. This interest has been enhanced by all women in my family who have always have had a big passion for sewing and fashion. I recently moved back to Stockholm from London, where I have spent 4 years studying fashion design, Womenswear at London College of Fashion and now I just started my own fashion label under my own name, Johanna Pihl. My philosophy is to design clothes that show a confident, sharp and elegant attitude. My ambition is to create garments with high quality and focus on tailoring, detail and finish. I design for the modern woman. To her with a strong, sharp and a stylish attitude, who likes to reflect her inner with her outer style.

I appreciate your womenswear because you use to mix and match a strong design with soft colors. How did you get this idea?
Thank you. Well, my inspiration for the S/S12 collection was built on an investigation into the relationship between the body’s anatomy and the fascination with genetic enhancement through plastic surgery, focusing research on the contrast of our natural form with the cold metals of machinery. This idea of nature against synthetic is a recurring theme. So while the colours are soft and mostly inspired from our body and it’s anatomy, the design is built to represent the harder part of the inspiration, which came from the engine, and it’s structure. With the collection, I wanted to demonstrate that our body is constructed and calculated like machinery and by altering and reorganizing out appearance through plastic surgery we diminish out human design.

Who are the designers that inspire you the most?
There are a lot of designers who inspires me, but the ones that inspire me the most are mainly Riccardo Tisci and Nicolas Ghesquière.

What are your favourite materials to work with?
I prefer working with elegant and natural fabrics, which I then manipulate with, in order to get a sharper look.

How has your education influenced your way to live fashion?
As I said earlier, my interest for fashion has always been a big part of my life, but study design helped me to develop my own style and to believe strongly in what I create.

How have you decided to become a fashion designer?
Ever since young age my idea was always to be a fashion designer, despite that I actually first educated and started working as a buyer/production manager. Having done that for a while, I realized that this was not creative enough for me so I applied for LCF and moved to London. Which today I’m very grateful for.

Which are your projects for the future?
When I finished my education in London this June, I returned to Stockholm and participated in a competition sponsored by Mercedes Benz, called Young Fashion Industry Award. To my delight I won and I’m now in the making of my AW12 collection, which will be shown during schedule for the next Stockholm Fashion week Jan/Feb 2012.

Interview by Irene-Anna-Gasparello
Photography by Patrick Lindblom

Interview Olga Noronha

Fashion

Olga Noronha is a very young jewelry designer and, yes, she is talented. She has her own individuality and expresses herself through her art pieces. She studied Jewellery Design at the Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design and now she attends the Goldsmiths College.

We made some questions to this young portuguese designer because we think she has originality and skills.

How do you get inspired to create your jewelry?
I consider myself to be easily inspired by everything that surrounds me and that I can find a “meaning” in… however, there is something that is essential to me when designing a piece: there needs to be a passive and active interaction. By passive interaction I mean the piece being able to communicate more than a simple idea of acessory/adornment; the jewel is like a sculpture that lives in direct contact with the user’s body, but also is aprecciated and “felt” from an exterior point of view. In my pieces I like to challenge and explore the relationship of interactivity, either tactile or mental/emotional, between the object, the user and the spectator. I particularly like to emphasise and play with the scale of importance of some of the situations and acts that take a more than quotidian role in our lives and, precisely because that, they pass unnoticed.

What are the most important characteristics of a good designer?
1. Having knowledge of your subject
2. Thinking/ exploring your creativity
3. Finding the right market for you
4. Placing/adapting things in the right time and place
5. Having good communicative skills, whichever the medium you choose is.

Who are the designers that inspire you the most?
I wouldn’t say I have a favourite designer. I do prefer saying that I like various designers for their peculiar and individual details either in their conceptual approach or design/craft path. But if I have to now choose someone I would definitely go with Naomi Filmer and Gerd Rothman.

What are your most important experiences as a designer?
I think being able to fundament your ideas. It does take a great amount of passion for what you do to properly convince people that your ideas “have feet to go on” : )

How has your education in London influenced your life as a designer?
My coming to London was instigated by my looking for highly recognised undergraduate studies related to jewellery design in its conceptual and boundary-pushing domain rather than the commercial field. I would say that, as London is a true “melting pot” where everything you do is seen and interpreted by people from all over the world, the probabilities of you being recognized worldwide are much bigger than if I was a Portugal based artist.

Who are the designers you would like to work with?
I would have loved to work with Alexander Mcqueen and would love to work with Nick Knight and Gareth Pugh.

If you could wish something for yourself, what would it be?
Being able to achieve all my dreams ahah!, and there are a lot of them. :)

Interview and Text by Irene Anna Gasparello

website Olga Noronha
Credits Images:
Photography by Daniel Pires
www.danielpires.co.uk
MUA: Rose Hellewell
Model: Stina @ MandP Models