Tag : Designer
Sasha Glybina (19) is a young designer from the Ukraine. She has started her own brand SASHA GLYBINA about two years ago. After a summer course in St.Martins (London) and an internship at the London Fashion Week, Sasha has showed her collection at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Kiev in October 2011.
Can you tell us anything about your S/S 2012 collection? Inspiration, any hints?
This is my first collection, consisting of more than thirty looks. The source of inspiration is – graffiti, street arts and artists. Sketches of this collection I´ve painted in the St. Martin´s school of Fashion (London) in summer 2011. Finished drawing directly on the return flight to Kiev. As soon as I returned home, I looked for fabrication. In general the process has started!
What made you interested in working in fashion?
Since childhood I knew exactly, that I wanted to be a fashion designer. I waited for the right moment to begin – and now the time has come! I’m very happy that little by little many of my plans become reality!
Where do you find inspiration?
Everywhere, because it’s a collaboration of everything that surrounds me
You studied at the Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, what effect does London have on your creativity?
London reflects me perfectly. When I got there I couldn’t believe that I was there. I felt very comfortable and enjoyed every second of my stay, accompanied with creating a collection and inventing plans for the future.
Tell me about your experience with MB Fashion Week Kiev. How was it?
At this stage of my young life it was the first large-scale experience with an organisation in the world of fashion. I consciously agreed to ask myself this crazy pace of work from season to season, because day and night, no matter where in the world I was breathing and living my work. Now I am preparing the AW/12-13 collection which will be presented in March at MB Fashion week Kiev
If you could pick anything, what would be your dream project?
A project to become one of the most successful brand in the world.
Developing my brand everyday, to improve the quality of work and most importantly to make people happy with my clothing SG.
Famous last words?
I wish everyone to be themselves accept this reality as it really is only then they will acquire all of its meaning
Thank you so much Sasha!
Thanks a lot!
Interview by Markus Gnong
Sasha Glybina / Spring/Summer 2012 Lookbook
styling and design: Sasha Glybina
photography: Jenja Shvidak
hair and make-up: Annie Lysenko
models: Eugene Skvarskaya, Victor Shurapov
“I strive to make people feel good, look good and feel confident. Thinking of the children’s fairy tale ‘The Emperor’s New Clothes’, if I could give people the confidence to feel wonderful naked, I would.” says London born, but L.A. based designer Lily Blue. Read her wonderful inspiring thoughts about fashion, her new life in L.A. and where she sees herself in 5 years…
Lily, what does fashion mean to you?
Fashion for me is a self expression of who you are, how you feel and, really can be anything. For me fashion is a feeling interpreted into clothing, an opportunity to explore different characters within ourselves. Multi-faceted, fashion can express our inner characters externally. Creativity in fashion has more to offer than a uniformity dictated by mainstream design/media. The pressure to conform to the narrow confines of a uniform can kill expression. Fashion for me is a freedom of expression. Fashion is a symbol of the times you’re going through, both as an individual and as is distinguished by the era, class, culture and mentality of society. Fashion is theatre because people, consciously or not, are affected by exterior impressions. Whether you are wearing designer clothes, torn up clothes, or a bin-liner it is all fashion and making a statement.
I loved to read this part in your bio: “When you wear different styles, it is so interesting to see how people judge you, label you and categorise you, based on your attire. I found that so fascinating. I realised is not what you wear but how you wear it” She went out once wearing an outfit made of bin-liners and dish clothes and went to an exclusive members-only club. “I went in there and wore that dress like I owned the place, and the response was amazing. We got our own private table, the owner came over and brought over champagne for our party…
“Clothes are different on every woman which is why I make ‘one of a kind’ clothes for the individual. Women love to feel good, feel beautiful, feel feminine, feel flowing movement, and feel where the clothes hug and support into the body. It’s good to feel hugged! My dress designs, created for a client’s individual body shape and type, illustrate and fête what distinguishes her unique nature, celebrate who she is, revealing and exemplifying her natural organic perfections.Making clothes is an organic process, a creative drawing process, following lines and planes around a woman’s form adding potential expression, reacting to her curves, like sculpture. I want my clothes to make a woman feel beautiful, , curvy, feminine, effervescent, effortlessly flowing, revealing their shape, rejoicing in the natural sensuality and purity of their female form. One feels so different depending on what one is wearing. My joy is to design clothing which makes the woman feel beautiful, with the fabric, colour, cut and draping all tailored upon that individual.
It’s not what you wear, it’s how you wear it and how it makes you feel that matters. To experiment with how you feel is fun. If you feel great and in the mood to wear a bin-liner and can make wearing a bin-liner look absolutely fabulous, other people will enjoy the look. I strive to make people feel good, look good and feel confident. Thinking of the children’s fairy tale ‘The Emperor’s New Clothes’, if I could give people the confidence to feel wonderful naked, I would. Life drawing and life sculpting have given me a sense of an infinity of differences of the divine in the human form. My aim is to seek out and enhance the natural beauty of a form rather than the contrived. As a creative designer and artist making clothes for myself and my individual clients, I am free from narrow parameters of fashion industry favouring shape or look. I am able to develop new ideas around an individual’s uniquely beautiful form. I’m so lucky not to have bought into trends and mass production. With new trends, to fit in, people conform to a norm. People who wear my clothes want to transform how they move and feel, want to celebrate the feminine and intensify what they already are. I concentrate on a brand new dress each day evolving constantly with new ideas inspired by responding creatively to my clients forms. Having such freedom avoids the stagnation of making garments for mass production. My dresses subtlety twist and turn, sculpting drapery around the uniqueness of an individual client.
Lily Blue herself
© Skye von der Osten Photography
You have worked at Vivienne Westwood for some time – what was the best thing you took out of this experience?
Working with Vivienne Westwood broadened my mind and vision daily seeng what is possible and how much work is put into the incredible clothing of that most inspirational fashion designer. Being in that wonderful environment watching her designs coming into fruition, cutting out her patterns, being part of the whole process of making her clothes, I realised, it’s a purely free flowing creative process. It gave me the confidence to be exploratory in playing around and not having to conform to the conventionality of how clothes are meant to be. Her incredible, unique and amazing talent for designing beautiful clothes combined with her attitude of breaking out of convention really inspired me not to be afraid to experiment and break the pattern. She gave me courage, not to be afraid to experiment. There’s so much more in her work to your regular trousers, blouses. I was inspired that she sculpted clothes which created unexpected surprises, with these unconventional differences they assume a look of ‘no rules’, and yet, her clothes are highly technical and made to the highest standard. What I love about Vivienne’s work is it is an emotional thing.. her expression in a moment of time. She has gone through so many phases and experimented. She is an artist and following through. That tenacity really inspired me.Vivienne Westwood is so busy, there are so many people in the company who she is supported by. Her capacity to hold everything together, and to be able to push through is inspirational.
Originally you are from London but live in L.A. now- what is the biggest difference of lifestyle and in fashion?
Firstly, weather which has a huge effect on everything to do with attitude, and what people wear. Secondly, there is a lot more fashion in London, far more diverse in styles, and so much inspiration. They take clothes more seriously, whereas in LA, it is more about easy and comfort. I feel people want more style here in LA, so there’s more opportunity. The attitude in LA is far more opportunistic, there is a brighter outlook where anything is possible. London feels more pessimistic, especially with the economic climate now. fashion designers success us often conditional of background, on where they studied, and with who. There’s an old way, old paradigm, even if the old rules are being broken. There is a feeling of a brick wall of ‘have that covered’, things feel more regimented, combination of cold criteria of what is expected, even in expressions of breaking through. Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen broke through and yet industry is so closed and full of pretentions. In London it’s more ‘Who are you?’ People liable to put down ambition with an attitude of things are not possible. But then again, in London there is far more individuality, far more ‘food for thought’ walking around the streets of London, there is so much theatre, art, diversity of cultures. In LA wonderful sense of freedom of a newer country where there are many options to explore. So much opportunity, so many artists living in close proximity, excitement of ‘can do’. LA more about invention, the people respond to talent, attitude, perseverance instead of who, where you work, who your family are. LA, more interested in the doing as an individual, there is a sense of possibility for ANYONE, an attitude of open competition. Everyone you’re around is motivated, wanting to succeed, wanting you to succeed, want you make something of yourself. The key here is you have to believe in yourself and if you believe in yourself everything falls into place. LA people are more idealistic, attitude of you create your own reality, so may as well have a positive attitude. Far more acceptable to have such high expectations, huge goals, huge ambition and easier to stay in that state as people are around to support big aims and big goals. LA up and coming underground artists blossoming. Is the new art scene. Galleries are opening up everywhere. Fashion is needed here and people really respond well to up and coming style. People are longing for new fashion. LA people have lack of style but are full of positivity. At ‘Burning Man’ festival there is a whole community of artistic and creative and proactive people. They break out of convention, a movement of free thinkers, the way they see food, take care of body. Extremely experimental with clothing, a lot of leather and feathers. Burning Man fashion seem to be morpthing into one, you can see a code, similar styles of designers.
Do you think it´s easier to achieve something over there or is this big American dream story not really valid anymore nowadays?
In England I witnessed artists fight with a whole range of judgements as well as their own internal struggles. In LA one just has to deal with oneself. There are so many nurturing people in LA who believe in you. There’s an energy here – brighter, clearer – one senses vast distances, it’s a big country. And also one can see ahead, 5 years – 10 years. In Britain, there is a thick dark grey blanket of damp pollution, history, oldness, cold old buildings and traditional old ways. In London there is a wall to be scaled for acceptance and being valued. England is very established already. London’s a favourite city, beautiful history, style, intellect and absolutely fascinating: Too much sometimes, there’s just so much there, you feel, where’s your place? and things so established that it’s hard to get a foot in, there’s not a welcoming feeling of ‘Oh Wow! What have You got to offer?’ as there is in LA. In USA there is a sense of newness, invitation to do things. One has to work fast as things are disposable, people have short attention span of ‘what’s new?’ I find there is so much opportunity here overwhelming. LA doesn’t feel very established.. tourist, public transport is shockingly underdeveloped.
So, are you working on a new collection at the moment?
I’m constantly working on new pieces. At the moment it’s just me creating one-of-a-kind one pieces for clients. I’m constantly working on new ideas and experimenting. I’m having a fashion show in New York in a few days and another one when I get back to LA. I use earthy, contrasting fabrics with a lot of seams. Previously my work felt and looked totally seamless, and now it’s the opposite, as there are so many seams, that the seams become the design. Interwoven seams follow the natural curves of the body, revealing movement, drawing subtle lines, expressing the beauty and vulnerability of inner life’s journey. I think the fashion industry has gone too far hiding who we are, creating a lot of insecurities in women and their bodies, showing what they should look like. This is not healthy, clothing should be an expression, revealing the inside, revealing the making of who we are.
© David Heisler
What or who inspires you to create your fashion?
I could never really find what I wanted to wear. What I saw in shops I wanted to change a bit. Aged 17, when Salsa dancing, I wanted to find clothes to flow beautifully with dancers bodies. I was inspired to make a skirt when in Egypt a woman walked by, I admired her skirt, which she kindly took off so I could examine how it was made. I made circle skirts following this design and everyone loved them and wanted me to make them. In my dreams I knew how to make dresses perfectly but on waking didn’t have the tools to make them. I highlighted how I felt through the expression of clothes, and observed responses as my clothes drew attention where ever I was. Then I wanted my friends to benefit from the heightened feeling of awareness and communication through clothing, wanting women to feel good about themselves and accentuating their feminine form. I’m inspired by the colours of nature, the contrast and subtlety of nature’s colours flowing beautifully together. Nature, so very different from deliberate man-made products, where rigid structure and symmetry overrides. There’s nothing more beautiful than nature’s organic process, which I want to emulate with the natural body and clothing becoming one flowing. I want to use my skills as a designer to create new ways of perceiving beauty and fashion in a healthy, happy, respectful way, and also as a means to help raise money and awareness for charities in Africa and globally.
Lily Blue herself
Where do you see yourself in 5 years?
In 5 years I see myself dressing for red carpet events and having beautiful chic boutiques globally. I see myself breaking into menswear (exploring menswear as has never been done before). Also, I see myself working to help with famine in Africa and globally helping other people help themselves. I see myself improving my art, thriving and responding to things that inspire me.
Five things you cannot live without?
Wow that is an impossible question as it’s constantly changing as is everything in life. Whatever inspires me in the moment. Laughter is definitely something I can never live without.
What´s the most important thing in life?
Today I’m very happy to show you this huge interview with the italian designer Licia Florio. If you appreciate her clothes, you can buy them on her new online store www.ilflor.com
Hi Licia. You are Italian, like me, and I’m very happy to take a piece of our peniunsula on the international mag C-Heads. I would start from here to ask you the first question. What are the aspects of style in which you feel close to our country and in what do you feel a bit foreign? I like the quality, the sartorial and handcraft skills of our country. I love the tradition and the history, the strenght with which we are able to renovate ourself. I don’t appreciate the ostentation of the brands, the corporativisms, the unhealthy competition and the rumors.
On your website I read that your brand would like to realize simple clothing, able to enhance shapes, but being comfortable. Your ideas as a designer also reflect what you look for in clothes, as a client? I draw and I produce only the clothes that I would like to have. I think that there is space in the market for a collection with the characteristics that I want to achieve. I’m a careful client and I’m very critic. I like to buy clothes in the vintage shops and online.
In your research as a stylist, who have been the fashion designers that inspired you the most?
The school of Antwerp, Prada, Marni, the Japanese school, the Italian tradition, the workwear, unknown vintage clothing.
Your last winter collection was inspired by the birch, the oleander, the pine. You combined the human world with the vegetal one. What do you expect to communicate to us with you new spring collection?
In that winter collection I worked starting from the city, that characterize itself as a natural enviroment (my city, my forest). I gave to each piece of clothing the latin name of the trees as they were a part of this ecosytem. For the summer I have been inspired by the nautical world: a relationship with the nature and the travel, with the enterprise. Colors, natural textiles and simple geometries that create a train of thought with the seasons.
In your works the attention for the choice of colors and materials is very evident. What are the colors and the materials you prefer to work with? And how do you choose them?
In my research work, working on the textiles is fundamental. I use natural textiles (hemp cloth, linen, silk, cotton) and I match them with colors that show them up and create harmony. For this season I have drawn a new pattern: a little knot that reminds the mood of the collection.
Do you find some inspiration in other kinds of art, like painting or music?
I love arts, I think that some expressions of fashion reminds them. If I wouldn’t have my brands I would keep on painting, like I did some years ago.
Who do you think is a fashion icon? Have you got one, more than one or no one?
I don’t like the icons, I prefer to be fascinated by the people that I meet every day.
What are the main difficulties that a person who wants to be a fashion designer can meet?
We know that the offer is very large and there is a lot of competition in the world of fashion, but I think that is still possible to establish and grow up as a fashion designer.
You have to be curious and to learn being self-critical on your work. You have to equipe yourself with determination and will.
What are your next projects? Are there any collaborations or things you would like to realize as soon as possible?
I’m working on the new collections for Licia Florio and for L’F unisex, the brand of shoes I’ve founded with my boyfriend Francio Ferrari. I really want to do new things and I put all my enthusiasm in new projects.
How would you describe the philosophy of your brand Licia Florio to our readers?
Simple and comfortable, able to enhance who wears it.
Thank you so much for your courtesy and having explained to us something about your ideas about fashion and your work!
Interview by Irene-Anna Gasparello
Bjørg Nordli-Mathisen is a jewellery designer from Norway. Her collections are inspired by her travels and nomadic lifestyle. Her handmade pieces has been seen on artists like Madonna, Rihanna, Jessie J and many more – and Editorial coverage includes Vogue, Elle, Nylon and Dazed&Confused. Actually she released “THE 2012 COLLECTION – NOT ALL THOSE WHO WANDER ARE LOST”. We are still not sure if the campaign video is truly stunning due the amazing pictures or just too shocking as the look of burning of a witch is just absurd. May we just ignore and only look at the beautiful and mystique collection! We want!
We have discovered a cool new fashion brand – CC Kuo! A london based label with cool digital prints, luxurious fabrics and stylish designs. Her latest collection CC KUO SS2012 – The Black Stripe was inspired by “a black stripe dress and vintage jewellery that were in her mother´s wardrobe, which also reminded her of the 60s fashion icon Twiggy.” We really love the way she uses colours and shapes!
|Who is the person behind the label CC KUO?
What does fashion mean for you?
You are based in London – could you imagine to do your job anywhere else in the world – or is it the place to be for a designer?
Amongst others you have worked for Alexander McQueen – what are your memories of that time and of him?
Why did you decide to create your own label at the end- I mean the competition is enormous and I am sure even if being very talented it is tough, isn´t it?
|What or who inspires you?
Anything and anyone.
Who would you like to design something for?
In 5 years you would like to be?
5 things you cannot live without?
Any new years resolutions?
Interview by Sigrun Guggenberger
CC KUO SS2012 – The Black Stripe
Special thanks to Shyalala Studio
Enchanting! This time we have asked 5 questions to the Austrian label Elfenkleid. The two designers Sandra Thaler and Annette Prechtl are behind all this – with their soft, feminine dresses with flowing fabrics together with a contemporary interpretation of evening and wedding dresses. The “black & white edition” was staged by the awesome photographer Michael Dürr!
Zauberhaft! Diesmal haben wir 5 Fragen an die Designer des österreichischen Labels Elfenkleid gestellt. Hinter Elfenkleid stecken die beiden Designerinnen Sandra Thaler und Annette Prechtl mit ihren zarten, femininen und weich fliessenden Kleidern sowie zeitgemässer Interpretation von Abend und Hochzeitskleidern. Die ‚black & white edition’ wurde von dem grossartigen Photographen Michael Dürr in Szene gesetzt!
|“Elfenkleid” founded in 2001, so it is 10 years now! Can you remember your very first design?
Yes, we do remember very well that time and the designs we did.What does fashion mean to you?
We emphasize on a simple, straight lined design, a high wearing comfort and trend independence. For our couture collection “black & white edition” we always bear in mind a modern interpretation of wedding and evening dresses. Our aim is to bridge a divide between modernism and tradition and to unite this with our designs.
|Who would you love to see in your evening dress?
We are holding it near and dear to address woman who want to emphasize their character, people who think it is important that their own personality is emphasized by the clothes and don´t want to just dress themselves up. The person is always in the foreground.“Elfenkleid” gibt es seit 2001, also 10 Jahre! Könnt ihr euch noch an euer erstes Design erinnern?
Ja, wir können uns noch sehr gut an diese Zeit und die Entwürfe erinnern.
|Was bedeutet Mode für euch?
Wir legen viel Wert auf ein schlichtes, geradliniges Design, hohen Tragekomfort und Trendunabhängigkeit. Bei unserer Couture-Kollektion “black & white edition¹ haben wir immer eine moderne Interpretation von Braut- und Abendkleidern vor Augen. Unser Ziel ist es die Kluft zwischen Moderne und Tradition zu überwinden und in den Entwürfen zu einer neuen Einheit zu verbinden.
Wem würdet ihr gerne einmal in euer Abendrobe sehen?
Es liegt uns am Herzen Frauen anzusprechen die ihren Charakter unterstreichen wollen, denen es wichtig ist, dass ihre eigene Persönlichkeit durch die Kleidung unterstrichen wird und sich nicht verkleiden. Die Person bleibt bei uns immer im Vordergrund.
imagekampagne black&white 11_12 © Michael Dürr for elfenkleid assistant: Anna Mautner Markhof model: Stefanie Wilfling / Stella Models Make Up & Hair: Nicole Kainz
elfenkleid Sandra Thaler & Annette Prechtl © Michael Dürr
What inspires you? And what has influenced you in your current collection?
That varies – it can be movies, countries and people… our focus by now is on dresses. The exciting thing about dresses is that you have a complete outfit already that can be varied and changed with the help of different accessories – such as belts or sashes.
Where do you see yourself in 5 years?
Our aim is to continue to grow.
Was inspiriert euch? Und was hat euch in der aktuellsten Kollektion beeinflusst?
Das ist sehr unterschiedlich, das können Filme, Länder und Menschen sein… unser Hauptaugenmerk liegt mittlerweile auf Kleidern. Das Spannende an Kleidern ist, dass man sofort ein komplettes Outfit hat, dieses aber je nach Wunsch immer wieder durch Accessoires – beispielsweise Gürtel und Schärpen – sehr leicht veränderbar ist.
In 5 Jahren seht ihr euch wo?
Unser Ziel ist es weiterhin kontinuierlich zu wachsen
Many thanks for your time! - Interview by Christine Guggenberger
Can anyone be creative? “Sure but creativity is a form of art. Some people are artist and some people aren’t. Some folks just do better watching and being a consumer than creating.” says Stevie Boi.
Well, he for sure is one of the people that are good in creating. Within a really short time he managed to make himself a name as the designer of the cool shades that have been seen on the ever so stylish Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Nicki Minaj, The Black Eyed Peas, B.o.B, The Editor of Vogue, Lola Monroe and many more. Not bad for a 22-year old with no design background but with a lot of ideas and the ability to put his imagination into reality – combined with hard work of course. But the need to create doesn´t just stop once you achieved something – so for sure we will hear and see more exciting things from Stevie Boi. We are very pleased to have been able to ask him a few questions about how he feels about his success, what his plans are and what the best things in life for him are…
First of all, Stevie how are you and where are you right now?
I am in Baltimore city in my Loft!
Your eyewear is all over the place at the moment with famous people such as Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Beyonce etc wearing them- how does that feel?
It feels really great aswell as well deserved.
I like it that you once said you don´t want to be just recognized as the eyewear designer of Lady Gaga & co though – it seems that you still have a lot of ideas and goals -what are your next steps?
I am currently filming a project, aswell as working on my next collection for MBFW.
What is the secret of your really fast success?
Hmmm, I would say just having an open mind and staying in people’s thoughts.
Can anyone be creative?
Sure but creativity is a form of art. Some people are artist and some people aren’t. Some folks just do better watching and being a consumer than creating.
I have just watched a lot of interviews with you- very inspirational and I am impressed of how focused and mature you are at such a young age! In one interview you said that by the age of 27 or so you don´t want to be that hard working anymore- what will you do then?:)
I imagine by the tender be of 27 I will be an already accomplished designer. I want to focus on being more than just a man behind he scenes. I am a personality and extremely fun to be around, I think it’s time for folks to see that.
left: Lady Gaga photographed by Wire image
Amber Rose photographe by Michael Antonio
Product shots by Michael Antonio
If not being a designer one of your choices would be to be a musician- what kind of music would you make?
A Vocalist/rapper. I would do lots of screaming, I love M.I.A
You were born in Georgia, but grew up in Europe- London, Paris, Germany and Italy, how come? Where was your favourite place and where do you feel at home now?
My parents were in the military that explains my travels. All were my fav but I really loved London. I feel at home in Europe more than I do here in the USA.
What other question should I really have asked you and what would you answer?
Hmm, how about. Stevie is it true your an alien? Ahhahhahha absolutely not! But I am from a different planet (dun dun dunnn) lol
5 things you cannot live without?
Hmm. My family, iPad, sunglasses, team ,and supporters.
What makes you happy- what makes you sad?
I get sad when I feel sad. I’m happy when everything is going the way I want it. I’m such a spoiled big baby haha.
The best things in life are…
Living! I just love to live and be happy. That’s my modo.
Many thanks for your time!
Interview by Sigrun Guggenberger
Patricia Gimenez (24) is a young and inspiring fashion designer from Sao Paulo. She worked in the creative team of Brazilian designer Cris Barros. Recently Patricia creates collections for luxury brands such as “LEFT” (Sao Paulo), and “So In Mell Swin” (California), and also create illustrations for the “more than fifty group” and “irresistible” (Miami).
Styling and Design: Patricia Gimenez – Photography: Marcelo Kahn – Hair and make-up: Mirella Cimelli - Model- Isabela abegalini
Text by Markus Gnong
“The most important thing for me always is not to encase and cover someone than to clothe someone… emphasizing the female body and its lines.” Martina Mueller launched her own Austrian label Callisti in January 2007 and opened also her first store in Vienna. Her label focuses on Prêt-à-porter / Ready to Wear collections and since 2009 as well on the Couture-clothing-line that shows elegant an stylish evening dresses. The style is feminine, tailored, enhancing & sexy but always with a noble, classical touch. Her dresses combines romantic imagination and a passion for glamour. Every single piece is about sensuality and the beauty of feminine power, clean and elegant designs. At the Vancouver Fashion Week 2011 she showed skin tones, tailored jackets and exquisitely draped feminine layered dresses and some sexy back detailing adds.
Text by Christine Guggenberger – Images © Yiheng Su and Nicholas Siu 2011
We fall in love with the new SS 2012 collection from the Danish Designer Anne Sofie Madsen. Inspired by the Japanese Hayao Miyazaki animation film, Princess Mononoke (1997) the silhouettes are yet modern and simplistic. Photographed by Hans Zeuthen www.hanszeuthen.com – Model Solveig from Unique Models
Text by Christine Guggenberger
teaser image: Mortar&Pestle Apparel
The Vancouver Fashion Week 2011 is over. More than 50 national & international designers showed their spring/summer 2012 collections. New fresh and also established designers presented diverse prints, while other ones selected block colors for their collections. The designers experimented with draping, asymmetry and wild slicing fabrics. Here are some selected favorite impressions of the Shows.
Shilmel Zagvar Fashion Center
Photography by Peter Jensen and Yiheng Su © 2011
Text by Christine Guggenberger
This designer is absolutely unique. Kathy Lam gets inspiration from Chinese porcelain and makes it into fashion in such a classy way. She works with soft linen or silk cotton and she creates amazing blue, ivory and cream knitted cardigans and beautiful skirts. Let’s discover the world of this girl inspired by Asia, grunge rock and vintage styling.
Tell us something about you and your brand
I was originally from Hong Kong and I spent my 20 years living there before I studied fashion design in the UK. No doubt I am influenced by Hong Kong – Oriental mixing western culture. My teenage was filled with British rock, so made me have interest in their dressing as well and that’s the starting of my favourite in fashion. The things I learnt through design is not to follow, but retain individuality to bring out personal aesthetic that represent yourself. I design casual and easy tailoring together with abstract prints. Not to say I am not amazed by extraordinary fashion just I am more absorbed about garment’s being wearable and maintainability. Also pattern design is an essential substance for the brand, as we all live in a symbolic world pattern gives so much meanings into a man’s eye. The people who will wear my clothes are delicate minds, sensitive to colors and true to themselves who likes comfortable fashion.
Your collection fascinated me because I love blue in all shades, and you use it a lot. Your clothes seem like paintings of the sea. How did you get inspired?
Interesting question. To be honest I used blue because the inspiration was from Chinese Blue and White porcelain. But think deeply, blue is always my beloved color sometimes when you incline one object you can’t tell the reason, maybe blue makes me feel relaxed.
The shapes of your collection are a bit oversize, they look comfy and classic. How did you get this mix and match?
Because inspiration was Chinese Blue and White porcelain so when I was researching fashion references was more concerning with Chinese traditional clothing like qipao. However the collection silhouette are not strict by typical womenswear qipao but a vision of Chinese menswear, which is loose fitting and boxy. Combining with western formal dressing element like button up, shirt collars and pressed pleats. It’s a combination of east and west.
Generally, what is your idea of fashion?
I will remain fashion as clean and basic on shapes, contrast with classy and delicate pattern, aware on using different fabrics, indeed textiles affect so much with the final outcome.
How do you choose your personal outfits?
It depends on the day of mood. Most of my times I dress very plain with collar shirt tuck in or some loose fit clothes. Sometimes I want to wear busy patterns from head to toes.
Your clothes also remind me of the chinese porcelain wares. Why this inspiration? Are you fascinated by the oriental culture?
When I first started the project my head came up with different pattern themes, but having a seconds thought I picked Chinese porcelain because I am a Chinese and I wanted to design something about it. For me, the Chinese porcelain art craft is very beautiful and detail-oriented.
What are your favourite materials to work with? I can recognize silk, spandex, cotton…
Whatever fabrics got distinct speciality and cozy. There are still many interesting textiles to be investigated and explored, I cannot stick on one material now.
Who are the designers that inspire you the most, and why?
Many fabulous designers inspire me and I often get pattern design idea from vintage clothing. If I have to name one it will be Dries Van Noten, his design contains artistic theory, bold on using colors and flora prints in a very elegant way.
Interview by Irene-Anna-Gasparello
If you don’t know what sustainable fashion is, today you can learn it with us. First of all, stop thinking that ecology = boring clothes. The works of the young designer Hsiu-Hui Hsu will show you that you can be absolutely genial respecting the enviroment.
Hi Hsiu-Hui! Let’s start this interview making you an easy question. Describe yourself as a designer. What is the philosophy behind your creations?
My designs are simple and practical. I want to design the garments that every woman would wear everyday and feel good in it.
I really love the colors you use in your collection, blue denim and black. How do you choose the colors of your womenswear?
The colors of collection are inspired by the reflection of solar energy panel. I wanted to create the kind of feeling between modern and the future. The coated denim and black/silver grosgrain fabric brings a low-profile luxury feel. Adding on metallic gold and silver details gives the collection a bright point and futuristic look.
You have also created a sort of solar energy panel dress. Could you tell us something about this experience?
I am really keen on sustainable fashion. I integrated the solar energy panel into my garment that I cannot only encourage people using this sustainable energy, but also it is functional as a mobile charging device. The power bank hidden in the dress pocket can be used to charge mobile phone, ipod and even an LED light when you need an electric torch in the dark. I intend to create fashionable garments that fit into urban people with the sustainable awareness.
Your dresses have very soft lines, but your jackets and your trousers are very strong. How do you get inspired?
The collection is inspired by strong female characters- Amelia Earhart and Mulan. They have feminine appearances with a strong mind. I am aiming to show modern women who are not afraid to challenge and assuming greater responsibility in our world and our future.
Who are the designer that inspire you the most? And who are the designers you would like to collaborate with?
Martin Margiela is definitely my number one. I read his book as my fashion bible. I still feel so excited every time I flip through the book and always have different ideas coming out. I would like to collaborate with Hussein Chalayan. I love his conceptual design and the way he integrates the technology into garment. It is really amazing that he can combine the two totally different knowledge (science+ fashion) together.
What is your story? Tell us something about your education and your first experiences as a designer.
I was a science student before I came to London. I studied animal science and cell biology. Then I came to London for my fashion dream. I took the foundation in Arts and design course and BA womenswear in London College of Fashion. I love the freedom and multi culture environment. I love the fact that there is no longer just right or wrong for your work. There are so much more possibilities. My first experience as a designer is actually sewn a Christmas outfit for my pet rabbit 6 years ago!
What are your projects for the future? We wish you to realise them all!
There are still too many things I want to do and to try. So I normally don’t do too much planning to limit myself. I grab the chance as it comes and live in the moment. But I do have a goal to start my own business in 5-10 years.
Interview by Irene-Anna-Gasparello